Ask travellers what they remember about Essaouira and many will mention a meal: sardines straight off the grill by the harbour, a fish tagine in a tiny medina restaurant, or a glass of mint tea on a rooftop as the sun sinks behind the Skala. This is a fishing town, and eating well here is simple, fresh and affordable — as long as you know where to eat in Essaouira.

Here is our guide to where to eat in Essaouira, from the charcoal grills to the terraces.

The port fish grills: Essaouira's signature meal

Next to the harbour, a row of simple stalls displays the day's catch on ice: sardines, sea bream, sole, prawns, squid, sometimes lobster. The ritual is always the same:

  1. Choose your fish from the display.
  2. Agree the price and the weight before anything goes on the grill.
  3. Sit at the shared tables while it is grilled over charcoal and served with bread, salad and a wedge of lemon.

Sardines are the cheapest and, for many locals, the best. Premium fish and shellfish cost more, so always confirm the total before cooking. The grills are at their liveliest at lunchtime, when the boats have come in. Arrive a little before one o'clock to get a table in the sun and the widest choice of fish.

The medina fish market

Inside the medina, the covered fish market near the central crossroads is where local families shop. It is a fascinating place to watch, full of noise and colour. Some small grills nearby will cook what you have bought for a modest fee — ask your riad host for the current practice, and agree the price first.

Fresh fish displayed in crates at the fish market in Essaouira
The fish market in Essaouira. Photo: Donar Reiskoffer, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 3.0)

Local dishes worth ordering

  • Fish tagine — slow-cooked with potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and chermoula, the local marinade of herbs, garlic and spices.
  • Seafood pastilla — a crisp pastry filled with fish, prawns and vermicelli; a speciality of the coast.
  • Sardine kefta — spiced sardine balls, often in a tomato sauce.
  • Couscous on Friday — many families and small restaurants serve it after midday prayers.
  • Harira — a hearty tomato, lentil and chickpea soup, especially popular during Ramadan.
  • Vegetarian options — vegetable tagine, couscous with seven vegetables, zaalouk (smoky aubergine salad) and loubia (white beans) are easy to find.

Breakfast, the Essaouira way

Most riads serve breakfast on the terrace: msemen (square, flaky pancakes), baghrir (the "thousand-hole" pancake), bread with olive oil, honey and amlou — the local spread of argan oil, almonds and honey. It is the best way to taste the region's argan oil; our argan cooperative guide explains how it is made.

Sweets, tea and juice

Pastry shops in the medina sell almond-filled gazelle horns, sesame biscuits and honey-soaked chebakia. Fresh orange juice is sold on the main streets, and mint tea is the answer to everything. For more ideas from across the country, see our guide to what to eat in Marrakech.

Sunset terraces

Essaouira's rooftops are made for the golden hour. Several cafés and restaurants have terraces overlooking the port or the ocean, perfect for a drink as the gulls circle the Skala. Alcohol is served only in licensed places, so ask if you want a glass of wine with dinner.

Oysters from Oualidia

Further up the coast, the lagoon of Oualidia is famous for its oysters, which sometimes appear on Essaouira's menus. If you love seafood, a lunch stop at the lagoon itself is unforgettable — read our Oualidia guide and our Essaouira to Oualidia transfer.

A perfect day of eating in Essaouira

  • 9:00 — Breakfast on your riad's terrace: msemen, baghrir, amlou and fresh orange juice.
  • 11:00 — A coffee on Moulay Hassan Square, watching the town wake up.
  • 13:00 — Sardines or sea bream at the port grills, eaten at the shared tables.
  • 16:30 — Mint tea and a gazelle horn from a medina pastry shop.
  • 18:30 — A drink on a rooftop terrace as the sun sets behind the Skala.
  • 20:30 — Dinner in the medina: a fish tagine or a seafood pastilla, and one last walk along the ramparts.

Where to eat in Essaouira: practical tips

  • Busy is good. A stall full of local customers is the best sign of freshness.
  • Ask the price first, especially for fish sold by weight.
  • Keep small notes — many small places only take cash.
  • Plan a picnic. The markets are perfect for bread, olives, cheese and fruit; our private picnic in Essaouira turns them into a day out.
  • During Ramadan, restaurants for visitors stay open, while local cafés come alive after sunset.

Plan your stay

For the rest of your time in town, see our Essaouira travel guide and our 2-day Essaouira itinerary, which builds in a port lunch and a rooftop sunset. Arriving from Marrakech? Our Marrakech to Essaouira transfer gets you there in time for lunch — and now you know where to eat in Essaouira.