Ask anyone who has done the classic Morocco loop which place they would go back to, and a surprising number say Essaouira. It is not the biggest, the oldest or the most famous town on the itinerary. It is simply the one where people finally relax — and there are far more things to do in Essaouira than its size suggests.
We drive to Essaouira several times a week, so this is the guide we would give a friend: the best things to do in Essaouira, where to eat, where to sleep and how long to stay.
Why Essaouira deserves more than a day trip
Essaouira sits on the Atlantic about 190 km west of Marrakech. The town you see today was laid out in the 1760s on the orders of Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, partly designed by a French engineer, which explains the unusually straight main streets inside the walls. For centuries it was Morocco's busiest port and was known to Europeans as Mogador; its medina has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001.
What makes it special now is the pace. The medina is small, flat and walkable, the sea breeze keeps summer temperatures mild, and the hassle level is far lower than in Marrakech. Many visitors come for a day from Marrakech and wish they had booked three nights.
Things to do in Essaouira
Walk the ramparts at the Skala de la Ville
The sea bastion on the north side of the medina is lined with old bronze cannons pointing out at the Atlantic, and it is the classic spot for sunset. Fans of Game of Thrones may recognise the walls: scenes of the city of Astapor were filmed here. Underneath the ramparts, small workshops carve and polish thuya wood, a fragrant local wood you will see everywhere as boxes, bowls and chess sets.
Watch the port come alive
Go to the port in the late morning, when the boats come in. The fleet of blue wooden boats, the gulls, the nets being mended on the quay — it is one of the most photographed scenes in Morocco for good reason. Climb the Skala du Port for the view back over the medina walls.
Get lost (a little) in the medina
Essaouira's medina is easy to navigate: two long main streets and a grid of side alleys. Wander the spice and jewellery souks, the art galleries that have made the town a small creative hub, and the old Mellah, the historic Jewish quarter. The Bayt Dakira heritage house there tells the story of the Jewish community that once made up a large part of the town's population.
The beach, the wind and the kitesurfers
South of the medina, a wide sandy beach curves for kilometres. The trade winds that blow most afternoons — strongest in spring and summer — make swimming and sunbathing a morning activity, but they have turned Essaouira into one of Morocco's capitals for kitesurfing and windsurfing. Several schools offer lessons for complete beginners. Serious riders head 25 km north to Moulay Bouzerktoun or south to Sidi Kaouki.
Go beyond the walls
The countryside around Essaouira is where our guests say the trip "clicked". Just south of town, the village of Diabat and the sand-swallowed ruins of the Borj El Berod fort come with a famous (and probably untrue) story about Jimi Hendrix. Further on, Sidi Kaouki is a wild, empty beach with a whitewashed marabout at the water's edge. Inland, argan forests, women's argan oil cooperatives and weekly Berber markets fill a slow, beautiful day.
You can visit all of this on our half-day argan route and coast excursion or the full-day trip to Sidi Kaouki. Couples and families love the private picnic excursion, where your driver takes you to a quiet clifftop or cove with blankets and cushions for a long lunch.
Time your visit with the Gnaoua festival
Every June, the Gnaoua World Music Festival fills the squares with trance music, jazz and fusion concerts, most of them free. It is wonderful and very busy: book accommodation and transport weeks ahead if your dates overlap.
Where to eat
The simplest and best meal in town is at the grill stalls near the port: you choose your fish, sardines, prawns or squid from the day's catch, agree the price by weight and it is grilled in front of you. Inside the medina, look for fish tagines and seafood pastilla, and have at least one sunset drink on a rooftop terrace overlooking the harbour.
Where to stay
Inside the medina, a riad puts you in the middle of everything, with rooftop views and breakfast on a terrace. Cars cannot enter, so your driver drops you at the nearest gate and a porter wheels your bags in. Along the beachfront, hotels are more modern, have parking and are ideal for kitesurfers and families with young children.
How many days in Essaouira?
- One day — the medina, the port and a sunset on the ramparts. Rushed, but possible from Marrakech.
- Two to three nights — our recommendation. Add a beach morning and a day out in the argan country or at Sidi Kaouki.
- A week — if you surf, kite or simply want to slow down properly.
Getting to Essaouira
Most travellers come from Marrakech by road: our Marrakech to Essaouira transfer takes about 2 h 30, and our honest comparison of bus, car and transfer explains the alternatives. Essaouira-Mogador airport has direct flights from some European cities and is around 20 minutes from town with our Essaouira airport transfer. If you are continuing south, the coast road to Agadir is one of the prettiest drives in the country.
Tell us your dates and where you are staying, and we will help you put the pieces together — from the airport to the argan trees.
