Visitors sometimes ask us, on the drive from Marrakech, whether there is anything to do in Essaouira after dark. The answer is yes — just not the nightclub kind. Essaouira at night is about a long sunset, a square full of families, the sound of a guembri drifting out of a doorway, a rooftop dinner and, on the right evening, a concert in a cultural house of the medina.
Here is how to spend your evenings.
1. Start with the sunset
Every evening, a small crowd gathers on the rocks below the Skala du Port and along the Skala de la Ville to watch the sun drop behind the Mogador islands. Arrive half an hour early with a jacket: when the sun goes, the sea breeze turns cool. On the beach, horse riders and camels walk along the wet sand in the last light. Our medina and ramparts walking guide shows the best viewpoints.
2. Walk the medina after dark
From around 6 pm, the medina wakes up again. Place Moulay Hassan fills with families, balloon sellers and street musicians; the main avenues of the souk stay open until around 9 or 10 pm, lit by lanterns and colourful displays of rugs and leather. It is the best time for relaxed shopping — and for mint tea on a terrace.
Most of the medina is lively and safe in the evening. As anywhere, keep to the main streets late at night and keep your phone out of sight in crowds.
3. Listen to Gnawa music
Essaouira is the capital of Gnawa music, and you do not need to wait for the June festival to hear it. Several restaurants and cafés in the medina host Gnawa musicians in the evening, and small cultural associations sometimes organise lila-style nights. Ask your riad where musicians are playing that week; hosts always know. Read more about the music in our Gnaoua festival guide.
4. Dinner on a rooftop
Essaouira's rooftops are made for long dinners: fish tagine, grilled sea bream, harira, and the ramparts glowing in the dark. A few rooftop bar-restaurants around Place Moulay Hassan and on the seafront serve alcohol and sometimes have live music or a DJ at weekends. Book ahead in high season. Our where to eat in Essaouira guide lists our favourite tables.
5. Catch a concert or a film
The medina's cultural houses programme evening events through the year:
- Dar Souiri hosts concerts and talks — jazz in late December, Andalusian music in autumn. See our Dar Souiri guide.
- The Institut français shows films and organises meetings — see our médiathèque and cinema guide.
- Festivals bring the biggest nights: check the Essaouira events calendar for your dates.
6. End with a hammam
A traditional hammam is a perfect way to end a windy day. Many riads and spas offer evening slots with gommage and argan-oil massage; book in the afternoon.
Essaouira at night, season by season
| Season | Evening atmosphere |
|---|---|
| Spring | Mild evenings, lively terraces, the best season for walking |
| Summer | Busy and festive, but windy and cool by the sea — bring a sweater |
| Autumn | Calm and golden, perfect for sunset and dinner outside |
| Winter | Quiet medina, cosy restaurants, concerts and exhibitions indoors |
During Ramadan, evenings take on a special atmosphere after the fast is broken: streets fill up late and pastry shops stay open into the night.
A perfect evening in Essaouira, hour by hour
- 6 pm — Climb onto the Skala de la Ville or the rocks below the Skala du Port for the sunset.
- 7 pm — Mint tea on a terrace overlooking Place Moulay Hassan as the square fills up.
- 8 pm — Stroll through the souk while the shops are still open; it is the best time for relaxed shopping.
- 9 pm — Dinner on a rooftop, with live Gnawa music if you are lucky.
- 10.30 pm — A concert at Dar Souiri, or a last drink on a rooftop bar.
That is Essaouira at night at its best: slow, friendly and full of music.
Good to know: most shops close around 9 or 10 pm, restaurants a little later.
Getting home after dark
Inside the medina, everything is on foot. Small blue petits taxis take you to the beachfront hotels for a few dirhams. If you are staying outside town — in Diabat, Ghazoua or Sidi Kaouki — taxis are scarce late at night: arrange your return with your accommodation or ask us for an evening driver who waits for you.
Arriving in Essaouira? Our airport transfer to the medina and airport transfer to Diabat and Ghazoua start at €20 per vehicle, and the Marrakech to Essaouira transfer takes about 2 h 30. For a special evening, our private picnic excursion can end with sunset on a wild beach.
