Half an hour south of Essaouira, the road runs out of town, through the argan forest and down to a beach so long and so empty that people often ask us whether we took a wrong turn. We did not. This is Sidi Kaouki, and a Sidi Kaouki day trip is our favourite way to show travellers the wild side of the Atlantic coast.

Here is how the day works on our private full-day excursion.

Where is Sidi Kaouki?

The village lies about 27 km south of Essaouira, roughly thirty minutes by car. It is tiny: a whitewashed shrine on the rocks, a few cafés and guesthouses, surf schools, camels resting on the sand and kilometres of beach in both directions. Kitesurfers and windsurfers know it well; most other visitors have never heard of it.

A Sidi Kaouki day trip, from 9 am to 5 pm

9:00 — Pickup in Essaouira

Your driver collects you at your hotel or at the gate nearest your riad. Within minutes, the ramparts give way to the argan forest that covers the whole region.

9:30 — Argan trees and climbing goats

The route south runs through groves of argan trees, found naturally almost nowhere else on Earth. In the right season you may see goats balanced improbably in the branches, eating the fruit. We stop wherever you want for photos.

10:30 — Sidi Kaouki beach

Time to walk. The beach is ideal for a long stroll, and locals offer camel and horse rides along the sand — agree the price before you set off. Watch the surf schools or the kites when the wind picks up, or simply sit by the shrine and look at the ocean.

Midday — A Berber souk and a picnic stop

Villages in this area hold weekly markets on different days of the week. When the day fits, your driver takes you to one: vegetables, spices, livestock, tools and tea tents, with hardly a tourist in sight. Our guide to visiting a Berber market explains the etiquette. Lunch is up to you: bring a picnic for the scenic stop included in the day, or eat grilled fish or a tagine at one of the beach cafés.

Afternoon — The cliff road

The return follows the coast, with dramatic cliffs, sea caves and rock formations. It is the most photogenic part of the day in the late afternoon light.

17:00 — Back in Essaouira

You are back in time for a sunset drink on a rooftop overlooking the harbour.

The shrine of Sidi Kaouki

The white building with the blue dome on the rocks is the shrine of the saint who gave the village its name. Local tradition credits him with helping women who hoped to have children, and families still visit. It is a place of devotion, so admire it from outside and keep your voice down.

Surfing, kitesurfing and swimming

Sidi Kaouki is a beach break with consistent waves and frequent wind, which makes it popular with surfers and kitesurfers; lessons can be arranged in the village. For swimming, be careful: the Atlantic is cool and currents can be strong. Swim only in calm conditions and where you see others in the water. Surfers should read our guide to surfing in Morocco.

Best time for a Sidi Kaouki day trip

  • Spring and autumn are the sweet spot: mild temperatures, beautiful light and very few people on the beach.
  • Summer brings the strongest trade winds — perfect for kitesurfers, less so for a lazy beach day. Go early, when the air is still calm.
  • Winter has the biggest swells for experienced surfers and crisp, clear days; bring a warm layer for the evening.

Whatever the season, mornings are usually calmer than afternoons, which is why our day starts on the beach and ends on the cliff road.

What to bring

  • Sunscreen and a hat — the sun is strong even when the wind feels cool.
  • A light jacket for the breeze.
  • Comfortable shoes for the rocks and the souk.
  • Cash in dirhams for rides, cafés and the market.
  • Food for the picnic stop, if you want one.

Price and what is included

Our private Essaouira full-day excursion costs, at the time of writing, €120 per vehicle for up to three people, €140 for a van for up to seven and €180 for a minibus for up to seventeen. It includes a private vehicle and driver for eight hours, hotel pickup and drop-off, air conditioning, water throughout the day, a picnic stop, fuel and parking. Meals, entry fees, tips and personal shopping are not included.

Half day or full day?

If you only have four hours, our Essaouira half-day tour covers Diabat, the estuary, the dunes and an argan cooperative. If you have a full day, the Sidi Kaouki day trip gives you all of that countryside plus the beach, the souk and the cliff road. For every other option, see our guide to day trips from Essaouira.