Most travellers crossing the High Atlas stay on the main road, stop at the top of the Tizi n'Tichka for a photo, and hurry on to Ouarzazate. They miss one of the most memorable places in southern Morocco. A short detour after the pass leads to the Telouet kasbah, the half-ruined fortress of the family that once ruled the Atlas, and then down the Ounila valley, a quiet road of red villages that ends at Aït Benhaddou.
Here is why it is worth the extra time.
The story of the Telouet kasbah
For centuries, Telouet controlled one of the main caravan routes across the High Atlas, linking Marrakech with the south and the Sahara. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it became the stronghold of the Glaoui family, whose most famous member, Thami El Glaoui, was Pasha of Marrakech and one of the most powerful men in the country during the French protectorate.
The family turned their kasbah into a vast complex of courtyards, towers and reception rooms, decorated by the best craftsmen of the time. After Morocco's independence in 1956, the Glaoui fell from power and the kasbah was abandoned. Most of it has since crumbled back into the earth — which makes what survives inside all the more astonishing.
What to see inside
From the outside, the kasbah looks like a ruin of earthen walls and collapsing towers. Inside, a caretaker opens a sequence of rooms that have survived remarkably well:
- Reception rooms covered in fine zellige tilework, with geometric patterns in green, blue and white.
- Carved stucco as delicate as lace around the doors and windows.
- Painted cedar ceilings, still vivid after decades of neglect.
- Wrought-iron windows framing views of the valley and the village below.
Climb to the roof terrace, where it is safe to do so, for a panorama over the ruins, the village and the mountains. A visit takes about an hour, and a small entrance fee is paid on site.
The village of Telouet
Telouet itself is a small, quiet village of earthen houses, where life revolves around the fields, the animals and the weekly market. A couple of simple cafés serve tagines and mint tea to travellers, and a few guesthouses welcome those who want to stay the night. Sleeping here is an unusual experience: total silence, a sky full of stars and the silhouette of the kasbah in the moonlight, before continuing down the valley the next morning.
The Ounila valley road
From Telouet, instead of returning to the main road, you can continue south down the Ounila valley towards Aït Benhaddou. This was the old caravan route, and it is now a paved road that very few tourists take.
The landscape is spectacular: red and ochre hills, green terraces along the river, earthen villages and kasbahs clinging to the slopes. Villages such as Anemiter and Tamdaght feel largely untouched by mass tourism, and you may share the road with more donkeys than cars. The valley ends at the famous ksar of Aït Benhaddou, which you reach from the north — our Aït Benhaddou guide explains how to visit it.
How long does the detour take?
From the Tizi n'Tichka, the side road to Telouet is about 20 km. Adding the Telouet kasbah and the Ounila valley to your journey adds roughly two hours compared with the main road, including the visit. With an early start from Marrakech, you can see Telouet, drive the valley, visit Aït Benhaddou in the late afternoon and reach Ouarzazate in the evening.
Tips for visiting
- Leave Marrakech early, ideally around 8 am, to enjoy each stop without rushing.
- Bring cash for the entrance fee, tea and small purchases; there are few card terminals in the valley.
- Wear good shoes: the ground inside and around the kasbah is uneven.
- Watch the season. Snow can close the Tizi n'Tichka for a few hours in winter, and heavy rain can affect the valley road.
- Respect the villages along the Ounila: dress modestly and ask before photographing people.
Adding Telouet to your transfer
With our Marrakech to Ouarzazate private transfer, scenic stops on request are included. If you would like to take the Telouet and Ounila valley route, tell us when you book so we can plan the timing of the day. At the time of writing, the transfer costs from €150 per vehicle for up to four passengers; entrance fees and meals are extra.
For the full picture of the road over the Atlas, read our Marrakech to Ouarzazate guide, then plan your stay with our guide to the things to do in Ouarzazate. And if you are wondering whether to continue to the dunes, our guide to a desert trip from Marrakech will help you decide. The Telouet kasbah is the kind of place you remember long after the trip.
