Most jazz festivals are big, loud and summery. Jazz sous l'Arganier is the opposite: a handful of concerts in the intimate hall of Dar Souiri, in the heart of Essaouira's medina, in the quiet days between Christmas and New Year. Musicians from Morocco, Africa, Europe and beyond share the stage, jam sessions run late, and the audience is close enough to see the players' fingers on the strings.
If you are thinking about Jazz sous l'Arganier in 2026, here is our practical guide.
When is Jazz sous l'Arganier 2026?
The festival always takes place in the last week of December. The 2025 edition — the ninth — was held at Dar Souiri from 27 to 29 December. For 2026, local agendas list 26 to 28 December 2026, which would make it the tenth edition; the organiser, the Essaouira-Mogador association, usually confirms the programme in December. Check before booking non-refundable travel.
What the music is like
The name says it all: jazz "under the argan tree", rooted in Morocco. Programmes mix straight-ahead jazz, African jazz and the meeting point that Essaouira loves most, Gnawa and jazz. Moroccan artists such as Majid Bekkas have spent decades blending the guembri — the Gnawa bass lute — with jazz improvisation, and that dialogue is never far away. Past editions have also included open jam sessions and talks, which give the festival its friendly, club-like feel.
Tickets and venue
Concerts take place at Dar Souiri, the cultural house of the medina (see our Dar Souiri guide). The hall is small, so seats are limited; in recent years tickets have been sold online and on site. Buy early if a particular concert matters to you, and arrive ahead of the start time.
Essaouira at the end of December
- Weather: sunny days often around 18–20°C, cool evenings around 10°C. The wind is usually light at this time of year. Bring a warm jacket for the walk home.
- Atmosphere: the medina is lively but relaxed; many visitors are Moroccan families and Europeans escaping winter.
- What else is on: the Casablanca International Biennale runs in Essaouira from 10 December 2026 to 10 January 2027 — read our Biennale guide — and the jazz festival leads straight into New Year's Eve in Essaouira.
A typical evening at Jazz sous l'Arganier
Evenings at the festival follow a gentle rhythm. Late afternoon, walk the ramparts at sunset — in December the light turns pink over the Skala. Then a light early dinner in the medina, because the first concert usually starts in the evening and the hall fills quickly. The concerts themselves are long, generous sets, often followed by a jam session where musicians from different groups play together and young local players sometimes join in. Afterwards, the medina is calm and safe for the short walk back to your riad.
Christmas in Essaouira
Christmas is not a public holiday in Morocco, so shops, souks and restaurants stay open as usual. Some hotels and restaurants offer a festive dinner on 24 or 25 December — book it in advance — and the town has a relaxed, international atmosphere. Combined with Jazz sous l'Arganier, the Biennale exhibitions and long walks on the beach, it makes a lovely alternative to a European Christmas.
Our tip: book your riad and your transfer as soon as the dates are confirmed. The week between Christmas and New Year is one of the busiest of the year in Essaouira, and the best-located riads near Dar Souiri fill up first. If you travel from Marrakech, leave in the morning: you will arrive in time for a walk on the ramparts and an early dinner before the first concert.
Where to stay
Book a riad or guesthouse inside the medina so you can walk back from Dar Souiri after the last set. The days around Christmas and New Year are busy, so reserve several weeks ahead. Our guide to where to stay in Essaouira compares the medina, the beachfront and Diabat.
Getting to Jazz sous l'Arganier
- From Marrakech: our Marrakech to Essaouira transfer takes about 2 h 30 from your riad or the airport to the medina gate, from €100 per vehicle at the time of writing.
- From Essaouira-Mogador airport: the airport transfer takes about twenty minutes, from €20.
- After the festival: we drive you back to Marrakech or on to Agadir, Casablanca or Imsouane. December is busy — book your return when you book your arrival.
Make a week of it
With a few days to spare, discover the coast south of town on our full-day excursion to Sidi Kaouki and the argan route, or simply enjoy long lunches at the port. Our Essaouira at night guide covers the evenings without concerts, and the Essaouira events calendar lists everything else on in winter. Jazz sous l'Arganier is small — and that is exactly why people come back every year.
